A wonderful time of motorbiking, exploring, suffering from heat, storytelling and good comradeship was about to end that morning at Khersaan river. Pawel and Beate need to get to the Turkish border soon and still have a good chunk of distance to cover. Safe travels and see you in Aachen.
We decided to head in direction of Shiraz but without leaving out the Lost Paradies and the beautiful Doroudzan lake. Lost Paradies is a poorly paved 2 kilomter pathway alongside a small creek, where Iranians spend their afternoon and evening. Trash everywhere, tents, noise, souvenir shops and motorbikes, also using this pathway are all over the place. Maybe it used to be a lost paradies, now there is nothing what reminds of paradies.
The camp spot instead totally blown us away. The dried out lake banks were a perfect off-road track and offered some unique and deserted spots for camping and swimming. We dipped into the water the second time that day and prepared the salad for dinner. Iranians obviously like company and so we got some neighbors after our tent was perfectly built up. For the chai in the morning and a funny extended typical „Iranian2German“ chat we happily tolerated it.
As we got a taste for remote places and the fact that getting stuck in city traffic at 37 degrees we avoided the metropolis since Tabriz. Shiraz should be an exception. It was always on our itinerary and after 15 consecutive days of riding we decided to take a two days break. But not before we haven’t seen Persepolis, the ancient palace of the Persian kings, 60 kilometers east of Shiraz. As always at such old monumental places: Impressive what people were able to build in the past without the technology we have nowadays. We limited our time here as the 42 degrees really made us suffer in our motorbike pants.
We preferred to get to Shiraz to hang out in the little and beautiful Boutique Hotel in the center of the city close to the Holy Shrine of Shah-e-Sherag. A must go for us as temporary neighbours. Feels odd as not muslim being in such a holy place for Iranians, but people didn’t feel really bothered. It had more the atmosphere of a big place to hang out together. Family and friends together in a perfectly illuminated „campus“ under Mohammed’s surveillance…
We didn’t really feel like doing anything the next day but the city seemed to be worth going out, despite the heat. Unfortunately – or fortunately, the city was more or less empty. It was Friday and we were forced to do nothing. For our purposes Shiraz gave us everything we needed but we’re sure that there’s more in this beautiful city.
The amenities of a hotel made us being unsuccessful in starting early to escape from the heat. Daniel spotted a curvy road eastbound but getting out of the city of Shiraz already cost us energy and loads of sweat. Frankly, we felt kinda proud how we maneuvered through city traffic. There are more or less no rules, but magically it works that nobody crashes and nobody is upset. We transformed to Iranians when it comes to traffic 😉 The heat was unbearable and even the mandatory watermelon break didn’t satisfy. Then we drove through fields of date palms and entered a road to an area obviously nobody goes to. The next three hours we didn’t see any car and exactly three people. Two of them after one hour of perfect asphalt and beautiful curves.
A wooden barrier made us stop and we were sure to must go back the road we just came. One guy wore an uniform – apparently for a long time already and haven’t been brushing his teeth for even longer. Even though his smile wasn’t nice to look at, it kinda comforted us a bit. We don’t know what he and the other guy who obviously just handled the barrier, protected but we were happy that they let us pass. The beauty of the roads kept staying but our feeling of uncertainty in what kind of area we were in, too. All the villages we passed were abandoned. Some looked as if people still lived there the day before, some villages showed rotten and destroyed houses. As we reached a road with a „do not pass“ and several other Farsi signs, as only road shown by our GPS, we were happy that we found the third person who helped us find the new road to the city we wanted to go to. The day became longer and longer and short after the sunset we arrived at a hotel in Behbahan. That the temperatures reached 45 degrees that day wasn’t in our minds the entire day but 38 degrees after 11pm made us realizing it. The forecast didn’t say anything differently for the next day…
This next two days are pretty easy to summarize. Cover distance and drink, drink, drink. We never experienced 47 degrees before in our life.
Everything we touched that day was incredibly hot and the worries about men and machine grew every minute. We didn’t search for campsites or lakes (these are dried out anyway) but for hotels with aircon.
The forecast told us that Kermanshah supposed to have decent temperatures. The next destination was set and we tried something new in Kermanshah.
As you may have noticed we are heading in opposite direction of India now. Our GPS is still working properly but some issues made us reroute a bit and unfortunately we had to let go the final destination India. Though the webpage’s name isn’t 100 percent accurate anymore we have some other beautiful countries ahead of us.
Maybe our route reveals which country might be our next 😉